Longshore current dislocation on barred beaches

A. K. Barreiro, Oliver Buhler

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

Abstract

We present a numerical investigation of longshore currents driven by breaking waves on barred beaches. Alongshore inhomogeneity in the wave envelope or bathymetry leads to the generation of strong dipolar structures when the waves are breaking. The dynamics of these structures transfer momentum from the bar of the beach into the trough. This study is pursued using a new model that allows long simulation times and realistic wave amplitudes. We study two idealized settings that are expected to produce current dislocation, as observed in field experiments. In one setting the current maximum is dislocated; in the other the current is diffused, but the maximum is not shifted.

Original languageEnglish (US)
Article numberC12004
JournalJournal of Geophysical Research: Space Physics
Volume113
Issue number12
DOIs
StatePublished - Dec 8 2008

Fingerprint

coastal currents
longshore current
beaches
Beaches
dislocation
beach
momentum transfer
breaking wave
wave breaking
bathymetry
inhomogeneity
trough
Bathymetry
bathymeters
Momentum transfer
troughs
simulation
envelopes
Experiments
field experiment

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Geochemistry and Petrology
  • Geophysics
  • Earth and Planetary Sciences (miscellaneous)
  • Space and Planetary Science
  • Oceanography

Cite this

Longshore current dislocation on barred beaches. / Barreiro, A. K.; Buhler, Oliver.

In: Journal of Geophysical Research: Space Physics, Vol. 113, No. 12, C12004, 08.12.2008.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

@article{18552c1233f84554bd639d115680b2dd,
title = "Longshore current dislocation on barred beaches",
abstract = "We present a numerical investigation of longshore currents driven by breaking waves on barred beaches. Alongshore inhomogeneity in the wave envelope or bathymetry leads to the generation of strong dipolar structures when the waves are breaking. The dynamics of these structures transfer momentum from the bar of the beach into the trough. This study is pursued using a new model that allows long simulation times and realistic wave amplitudes. We study two idealized settings that are expected to produce current dislocation, as observed in field experiments. In one setting the current maximum is dislocated; in the other the current is diffused, but the maximum is not shifted.",
author = "Barreiro, {A. K.} and Oliver Buhler",
year = "2008",
month = "12",
day = "8",
doi = "10.1029/2007JC004661",
language = "English (US)",
volume = "113",
journal = "Journal of Geophysical Research: Space Physics",
issn = "0148-0227",
number = "12",

}

TY - JOUR

T1 - Longshore current dislocation on barred beaches

AU - Barreiro, A. K.

AU - Buhler, Oliver

PY - 2008/12/8

Y1 - 2008/12/8

N2 - We present a numerical investigation of longshore currents driven by breaking waves on barred beaches. Alongshore inhomogeneity in the wave envelope or bathymetry leads to the generation of strong dipolar structures when the waves are breaking. The dynamics of these structures transfer momentum from the bar of the beach into the trough. This study is pursued using a new model that allows long simulation times and realistic wave amplitudes. We study two idealized settings that are expected to produce current dislocation, as observed in field experiments. In one setting the current maximum is dislocated; in the other the current is diffused, but the maximum is not shifted.

AB - We present a numerical investigation of longshore currents driven by breaking waves on barred beaches. Alongshore inhomogeneity in the wave envelope or bathymetry leads to the generation of strong dipolar structures when the waves are breaking. The dynamics of these structures transfer momentum from the bar of the beach into the trough. This study is pursued using a new model that allows long simulation times and realistic wave amplitudes. We study two idealized settings that are expected to produce current dislocation, as observed in field experiments. In one setting the current maximum is dislocated; in the other the current is diffused, but the maximum is not shifted.

UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=61849182659&partnerID=8YFLogxK

UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/citedby.url?scp=61849182659&partnerID=8YFLogxK

U2 - 10.1029/2007JC004661

DO - 10.1029/2007JC004661

M3 - Article

VL - 113

JO - Journal of Geophysical Research: Space Physics

JF - Journal of Geophysical Research: Space Physics

SN - 0148-0227

IS - 12

M1 - C12004

ER -